information on rotors & helpful FAQs

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ADAM'S ROTORS INC.

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why adam’s rotors?

because we do what no one else does. AR is a customizable product, having managed to turn a boring replacement product into something different. it's a have-it-your-way, made-to-order modification item ideal for any enthusiast. now, instead of just picking 1 of 1-3 drilled or slotted rotor styles from off-the-shelf inventory, we offer over 21+ patterns for your choice/taste, how YOU want them. after that pick a zinc for corrosion prevention...silver? gold? maybe black? thereafter you can even add one of our coated hub colors in a satin ceramic-silica finish to finalize your set and truly give them polished, unique look. we now even offer upgraded metallurgy, to a stronger premium grade high carbon iron if you so wish. we at AR believe a rotor ISN'T just a plain ol' service part...rather a fun, custom, cool way to not only enhance the look of your car, but add performance, protection, and something different to your build, with a ton of bang for your buck!

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oh yeh...and they actually perform!!!
track tested, endurance race team approved; check it out HERE.

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[Audizine.com featurette | 2011]

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quality, it's all in the details...

we chamfer each drill hole and pay extreme attention to how we lay down our machining…taking meticulous measures to avoid each and every vent rib; the internal cooling veins of most modern vented brake rotors. AR will not drill a rotor we are unable to do so with and thus unlike most, never have issues. this is another reason why unlike many, we also offer dimples and unique slot patterns, ways of avoiding this and offering better, longer lasting, quality products when we see possible issues with venting. lastly each set is made for YOU without the limitations of pattern & finish pre-made, “in stock”, off-the-shelf parts have. instead, we start each order upon payment & cater to your needs/wants for your car.

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how it works.

these are customized by you & made per order; you'll have them in about ~3 weeks...
(this takes in account ordering raw material, ship time to the shop, pattern machining, zinc finishing, hub coating & curing, packaging, & shipment pick-up!)

ALL ORDERS are FINAL SALE: we hold NO inventory & are held to the same final sale terms with our suppliers, as our policy to you.

we make ONLY factory fit replacement rotors to OE spec. plug n' play original fitment.
whatever one-off size you may be after other than what your car came with, will need to be based off another application's rotor that already exists.
in some cases, we can open up hub bore and modify bolt-patterns (within reason) but we need to discuss via email first.

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as seen on:

w/over 21+ patterns, 3 zinc finishes, & 5 hub coatings.the only company giving you options!!!

• dimpled
• drilled
• slotted
• dimpled/slotted
• drilled/slotted
• drill/drill/slot
• dimple/dimple/slot
• AR exclusive: speed, a multi-slot (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• AR exclusive: sport I, an over-dimple (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• AR exclusive: sport II, an over-slot (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• AR exclusive: race, our unique double slot (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• AR exclusive: street, double slot/drill (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• AR exclusive: track, double slot/dimple (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• AR exclusive: drag I, slot/cross hatch (1-piece must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• AR exclusive: drag II, double slot/cross hatch (1-piece must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• AR exclusive: drift I, triple curve (1-piece must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• AR exclusive: drift II, triple curve/slot (1-piece must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• NEW AR exclusive: sport III, a radial dimple (1-piece must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• NEW AR exclusive: sport IIII, a radial slot (1-piece must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• NEW AR exclusive: hex, a honeycomb mesh (extra charge) (inner face has sport IIII) (1-piece must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• NEW AR exclusive: web, a spider web net (extra charge) (inner face has sport IIII) (1-piece must be ordered w/coated hubs)
• custom pattern-match rear rotor options for front axle BBK owners (C-hook, J-hook, F-slot, etc.)

again, each set includes a complimentary rust free zinc finish with order...a corrosion protection process/measure.

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2. zinc finish (an esthetic & corrosion preventative)

add $50 for a f&r set.
gold zinc or black zinc finishes are a subtle, unique, esthetic touch for your rotors that very few offer, while still protecting your rotors from the elements.

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3. coated hubs (a finished look & custom option)

add $80 for a f&r set.
black (or red, blue, orange, yellow) hubs gives the looks of a 2-piece rotor and is a clean, polished, finished look.
the rotor is still standard silver zinc dipped first, but with an added matte ceramic-silica coated hub/hat.
this is required with the selection of any of our exclusive patterns.

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4. premium high carbon iron (metallurgy upgrade)

add $160 for a f&r set.
we have started to offer a premium grade cast iron option, available for most all applications. standard grade G3000 is great and more than sufficient for most any use, but in some scenario's, a stronger iron is beneficial. reports of longer lasting rotors have been found, ideal for high mileage cars, haulers, or even heavy track goers who really beat up their brakes. it also greatly reduces the worry of pad squeal in cases of high friction with high performance brake pads. the harder iron is stronger and fights warping and cracking concerns, and higher carbon & chromium levels aid in oxidation resistance. another great benefit to the G4000 upgrade, is the price includes a premium black coating on the rotor at no charge.

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-ONE (1) YEAR EXCHANGE WARRANTY-

this covers cracking, PER rotor…on all orders!!!
please unpack carefully & examine ALL packaging material for other brake components you may have ordered...it's all in there.

please also ALWAYS "test fit" each rotor by a visual examination/comparison to your stock/current set-up, per axle before installing...
this will help avoid installation costs/issues in the unlikely event there happens to be a mistake on EITHER end with the order.
we are NOT responsible for labor costs due to ANY fitment issues, but GUARANTEE we will make it right with correct parts.

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ORDER online NOW!!!!

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FAQs-

have a look here for some of our common questions, recommendations, and important info...

slotting dissipates heat, helps avoid glazing, and adds bite...  
drilling/dimpling do nothing but look good with new-age pads, as they no longer create the gasses they were once used to help disperse.  
thus, we've focused most of our exclusive patterns around slotting (our double slotting specifically, which we're known for, was designed & tested in many track & endurance race scenarios) to not only keep your brakes cooler when put to the test, but look good with unique, customizable ways of implementing them on factory spec rotors. 

with that said, for a daily driven street car, it really makes no difference when the car isn’t seeing hot brakes & aggressive stopping. in this case I always say to pick your favorite; after all, our concept is to have the customer choosing what they like for they’re own custom rotor.

our recommendations:

• slotting is both the quietest pattern and the most performance oriented...slotted, AR race, AR sport II's, AR speed, or our new AR drag options.
• drilling is a great look and it's safe despite popular belief...add a row for a sporty, classic look. drilled, drilled/slotted, drill/drill/slot, or AR street.            
  *note: drilling/dimpling are purely esthetic and offer no performance benefit for new age pads.
• we offer a unique alternative to drilling; dimpling. get something different! dimpled, dimpled/slotted, dimple/dimple/slot, AR track, or sport I's.
• be sure to check out the exclusive patterns we offer: AR race, street, track, sport I's & II's, speed, & our latest additions; AR drag & drift I & II. be different.
• utilize the silver zinc that’s included in price and add the black coated hubs for a clean finish...this also allows for our exclusive patterns.
• take advantage of our StopTech pad and stainless steel line packages that ship along side your rotor order, we're your one-stop-shop!

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"how do I order?"

1. select: use the drop-down menus to select your car, found under the menu bar, from any page.
2. axle: pick which axles your looking to replace. fronts 2 only? rears 2 only? or all 4 front & rear?
3. metallurgy: pick the iron grade; G3000 is standard iron vs. G4000 high carbon which includes complimentary black hubs & vents!
4. pattern: pick one of our 21+ pattern options.
5. zinc: pick a zinc finish, we have 3.
6. coating: pick a hub coating...this is optional for our classic patterns and required for any AR exclusives.
7. pads/lines: also optional, these can be added to the order as a bundled package if interested or in need.
8. fluid: we offer high performance brake fluid for a full flush and the perfect pairing for those stainless braided lines.
9. merch: pick-up a logo tee or sticker pack and SUPPORT AR!
10. add to cart: click BUY NOW to add to your cart.
11. checkout: we use PayPal for BOTH our credit card terminal or standard PayPal payments. you do NOT need an account to place an order.
12. sit back & let us make your set: we're fully made to order, so try to be patient while we get your set cut, dipped, coated, packed, and shipped out to you!

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"I need them ASAP! can you help?"

we're a fully made to order company at ~3 weeks.
if there is a legitimate need for a rush order, we can accommodate within reason at ~1.5-2, but would need your commitment with an order TODAY.
place the order and make mention in the notes of your time frame requirements & why, and we'll do whatever we can to make it happen!

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"do you offer pads and/or lines with your rotors? " "do you sell (insert brand xyz) pads?"

adam’s rotors inc. chooses to ONLY offer StopTech street & POSI-Quiet performance pads for a reason. we pair them with our rotors for there quality, performance, and realistic daily drive ability. many other performance pads, some of which being very popular and highly praised in the aftermarket community, are truly geared towards track use. tho great pads under the right circumstances, truly high performance pads have poor wet weather characteristics, are noisy, high dust, and more importantly made of compounds that require warm-up periods to create sufficient/safe bite. our pads are meant for car enthusiasts who push they're vehicles to the limit while also using it in daily driving scenarios. the two pads we offer cover both basis depending on the car and your driving style. StopTech stainless lines are the braided line of choice as well...better heat allowances & a great way to stiffen your pedal feel. we offer pad only, line only, and pads & line bundles with out rotors, which can be added to your cart in the order section...click HERE for more info on both products.

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"what is premium grade G4000 high carbon iron?"

we have started to offer a premium grade cast iron option, available for most all applications. standard grade G3000 is great and more than sufficient for most any use, but in some scenario's, a stronger iron is beneficial. reports of longer lasting rotors have been found, ideal for high mileage cars, haulers, or even heavy track goers who really beat up their brakes. it also greatly reduces the worry of pad squeal in cases of high friction with high performance brake pads. the harder iron is stronger and fights warping and cracking concerns, and higher carbon & chromium levels aid in oxidation resistance. another great benefit to the G4000 upgrade, is the price includes a premium black coating on the rotor at no charge.

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"is there a proper break-in procedure for my new set of adam's rotors?"

after EVERY new brake job is complete, immediately after installation is wrapped up, the brakes must be broken in…this is a crucial step in not only prepping both surfaces for a strong bite and safe braking, but will avoid sound issues, promote even wear, and all around smooth, clean, correct disc brake function. they also need to simply be driven; it can take up to 200 miles to truly break-in and feel right. this depends on many factors such as the car's weight, the pad compound used, the temperature outside during all stages, along with your actual bedding procedures performed. be patient and drive the brakes hard, but be mindful of warping as well.

when a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different objectives for bedding a brake system: heating up the brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad material evenly onto the rotors while burning the top layer of zinc away; and maturing the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are "cooked" out of the pad.For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60 mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.
-Matt Weiss & James Walker, Jr.

HERE is a fantastic link as well, w/text, photo, AND video on bedding; what, why, and how-to.

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"what's the difference between dimpled vs. drilled rotors?"

a drill hole is a drilled through hole, while a dimple only goes half way thru the rotor's surface. both forms of rotor machining have zero effect on daily driven performance/stopping and same for most track driving in reality. new age pads don’t create the gas that drill holes were designed to break up and dissipate. slotting is where we see the benefits in cooling. these disperse heat and keep the rotor surface cooler then a blank rotor and cool brakes are good brakes. dimpling is different...it’s a unique pattern or style of machining many manufactures do not offer. it gives the look we all want, without the fear of cracking many seem to have with drilling. the only real concern can be sound. dimples, due to the pockets “trapping” air between the pad & rotor face, can cause a soft clicking, covered more below.

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"how does hex or web perform?" "is there any plus or negative to the pattern?"

tho mainly aesthetically driven, we never forget about performance. the design still holds the basic concept of slotting (slotting dissipates heat, helps avoid glazing, and adds bite) but on top of that, we include one of our other brand new releases on the backside of every disc, AR sport IIII [radial slot] which noones even sees. we are all about having your cake & eating it too, installing great looking rotors that perform as well as they look thru your custom wheels.

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"do machined rotors create sound?"

keyword can...but it's just the dimpling/drilling. there is no reason the sound should be anything but mild...pleasant even. each application varies as rotor diameter/surface area changes, caliper size & pad contact differs, as do the compounds used in each brake pad. a bad bed, cheap pads, or an improper caliper/pad seating after install could cause something loud. drilling and more so dimpling is the culprit for anything other than a silent experience. air being trapped within the rotor's machining and two pad surfaces creates this, but again is nominal. slotting is the ideal for performance and the faint of ear, so if you are concerned, opt for any of our many other slotted-only patterns. the bedding process which should be completed immediately after install, can drastically effect stopping power and the amount of sound; it's also an important part of prepping your new rotors. high speed tap braking and full 0-30 pulls to slam to stop, is key. (see break-in info above) please be aware, ordering dimpled rotors is at your own risk & responsability. we are not liable for unsatisfaction due to the commonly known “locust” sound dimpling (and drilling) can make, which many enthusiast actually like. we have a 20 pattern catalog, so please explore all your options AR has to offer!

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"what makes AR machining so different?" "do adam's rotors crack after a while?" "do they warp?"

our rotors simply don't crack. all machining, dipping, coating, and packaging is done in-house at AR. 

1. we chamfers each drill hole which adds a beveled edge to each thru hole. 
2. we pay extreme attention to how the pattern is laid down when machining. taking meticulous measures to avoid each and every vent rib which are the internal cooling veins (on vented discs) in these rotors, avoids any issue with cracking. AR will not drill a rotor we are unable to do so with and thus cracking is never a concern. this is another reason why unlike many, we also offer dimples and unique slot patterns, ways of avoiding this and offering better, longer lasting, quality products.
3. AR also backs them by a 1 year exchange warranty per rotor on manuf. defects.

as for warping:

The term "warped brake disc" has been in common use in motor racing for decades. When a driver reports a vibration under hard braking, inexperienced crews, after checking for (and not finding) cracks often attribute the vibration to "warped discs". They then measure the disc thickness in various places, find significant variation and the diagnosis is cast in stone.When disc brakes for high performance cars arrived on the scene we began to hear of "warped brake discs" on road going cars, with the same analysis and diagnoses. Typically, the discs are resurfaced to cure the problem and, equally typically, after a relatively short time the roughness or vibration comes back. Brake roughness has caused a significant number of cars to be bought back by their manufacturers under the "lemon laws". This has been going on for decades now - and, like most things that we have cast in stone, the diagnoses are wrong.With one qualifier, presuming that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification, in more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s – one of the most intense brake development program in history - I have never seen a warped brake disc. I have seen lots of cracked discs, discs that had turned into shallow cones at operating temperature because they were mounted rigidly to their attachment bells or top hats, a few where the friction surface had collapsed in the area between straight radial interior vanes, and an untold number of discs with pad material unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces - sometimes visible and more often not. In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc, aka pad compound build-up. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.

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"what are the thin lines or cuts on the rotor face of my brand new adam's rotors?

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"do the gold or black zinc rotors stay gold/black forever?"

the colored zinc will only remain on the NON-pad contact areas for the life of the rotor. the face of the rotor will of course wear silver instantly upon the initial bedding process after install from friction, leaving a very subtle accent color (and more importantly corrosion protection) on the remainder of the rotor. (hub/hat, dimples, slots, vents, etc) this is the same for ANY zinc dipped, rust protected rotor, but with black/gold, has a very nice esthetic touch behind a custom wheel/painted caliper.

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"can you make bigger rotors for my car?"

you cant just put “bigger rotors” on your car. each mm larger (or smaller) would require a new/different carrier to hold the caliper the appropriate distance from the hub, allowing it to grab the rotor as it spins safety and efficiently within it...your wheels size is irrelevant here too, as we need to look at the basis of how disc brakes work. our rotors are ALL built to OEM dimensions. YOU tell us what application you want and we will make them for that car. for example, we often sell sports models or larger motored car's brake set-ups so base model/smaller motored cars within the same make/model due to their having larger brakes. an S4 on an A4, or an G37S on a base model infiniti...an STI on a WRX, etc. these set-ups using larger rotors/retrofits parts, are not a problem, to those who have already sourced the caliper and/or carrier set-up needed for an “OEM+ BBK” as we call it. BUT, this is still an OEM setup and works only on compatible applications. we are a replacement rotor manufacturer and we make our set-ups to spec, per car. you would have to have the caliper/carrier to accept the larger rotors…this is your modification and we are only responsible for plug n' play, direct bolt-on, OEM based rotors made for YOUR car…but please know we are happy to build a larger setup for you; it's simply your responsibility and requirement to do your own HW/sourcing for the rest of the components needed and in the end I must be building to factory dimension. once more we are made-to-order, final sale.

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"do you make rotors for (insert your car here)?"

YES! we make rotors for ANY make/model car/truck/van w/factory disc brakes...just email us if your specific car isn't listed in our catalog for a quote."can I choose any pattern you offer? do some cost more than others?" you can pick ANY of our 17+ patterns we offer...each set is made to your liking so have it your way. our exclusive patterns require that you add our ceramic coated hubs, but other than that all machining is included with our orders. as mentioned above, some rotors cannot be drilled due to their complex internal venting, as AR policy. in the event they cannot, we will contact you about using the default alternative, dimples.

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"do adam's rotors weigh less?"

yes, but we don't advertise as a lightweight alternative because the difference is marginal. but yes, they are lighter.unless you're a true race driver and this car only sees the track, noone out there can truly feel/utilize this "unsprung" weight with brakes on a daily driver that people have argued for ages. more importantly, it is hardly worth the extra money for these costly discs or the severely shorter lifespan of 2-piece LW alternatives for that matter. the blanks weigh less than stock blanks as is and after machining, even less of course. drilling takes about .75lb from the fronts and about .5lb from the rears. slotting takes half that amount. drilled/slotted variations are somewhere between those two give or take and a bit more when we look at our own patterns.

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"what does (insert $ quote) cover?" "how much for shipping to (insert state)" "how much shipped to Canada?"

all pricing is to your door within the US. machined to order, silver zinc dipped, packaged, shipped, with paypal/CC fee included.please realize this is when shopping around...our pricing is very competitive.there is NO pick-up available…Californian shipments must pay state tax. all AR orders INCLUDE free shipping within the contiental US & APO's. HI & AK are subject to their own flat rate, as does Canadian shipping, both of which are built into the store, at checkout. we also ship overseas! please inquire per application about international rates with a full address. we also promote that international orders provide a US address of friend or family to ship to in order to avoid the charges for international shipping and customs paperwork.

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"is every set made to order?" "do you have (insert your car)" in stock?"

all orders are final sale once payment is made. we do NOT stock ANYTHING...adam's rotors is a fully, built to order, custom tailored product...each set is made for you. with over 20 patterns, 2 mettalugy options, 3 zinc finishes, and 5 hub coatings, the combinations are endless. then pair that with EVERY make/model, car/trick/van made, this is what makes us who we are. we process orders immediately and order blanks at that time. once they arrive we start the machining process with urgency and move forward with the build quickly. we too are subject to final sale with our suppliers and being that each set is custom, made to order based, without any inventory or off the shelf units, there are no refunds whatsoever.

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"how do I clean my new set of adam's rotors?"

these aren't your everyday discs...AR finishes every set w/a complimentary zinc bath (silver) and have black & gold options as well. on top of that, we offer hub coatings to button everything up in a clean fashion. keep your harsh solvents & brake kleen away; these rotors are ready to endure the winter, but not harmful chemicals. mild soap & water is all you need after a messy install.