these are custom made, per order; you'll have them in about 2-3 weeks...
(this takes in account ordering parts, shipping time to the shop, pattern machining, zinc finishing, hub coating & curing, packaging, and shipment out to you!)
we have two divisions here at adam's rotors.
adam's rotors is mainly known for our one-piece units, built to OEM dimension, top quality premium pieces, PER vehicle...we only make to factory fitment for plug n' play installation as direct replacement rotors. we build the units to a particular vehicle, based on year, model, engine, drive, ect. from a spec book. ANY MAKE...ANY MODEL
each set includes silver zinc as a corrosion preventative, standard front & rear. any pricing we quote includes: packaging, shipping, transaction fee, pattern of you're liking, & silver zinc finish...we do business easy and straightforward.
NOTE: california residents must pay state tax...
because we do what noone else does. AR is a truly bespoke product, having managed to turn a boring replacement product into a customizable, made to order modification item. now, instead of just picking 1 of 2 drilled or slotted rotor styles from inventory in some warehouse, we offer over 12 patterns for your choosing, made FOR YOU. after that pick a zinc for corrosion prevention...silver? gold? maybe black? thereafter you can even add one of our coated hub colors in a matte ceramic finish to finalize your set and truly give a unique look. we at AR believe a rotor ISN'T just a plain ol' disc brake part...rather a fun, custom, cool way to not only enhance the look of your car, but add performance, protection, and something different to your build.
quality, it's all in the details...
we chamfer each drill hole and pay extreme attention to how we lay down our machining…taking meticulous measures to avoid each and every vent ribs, the internal cooling veins in these massive rotors. AR will not drill a rotor we are unable to do so with, and thus unlike most, never have issues. this is another reason why unlike many, we also offer dimples and unique slot patterns, ways of avoiding this and offering better, longer lasting, quality products when we see possible issues with venting. lastly each set is made for YOU without limitations to options/styles/finishes pre-made and “in stock” laying on the shelf. instead, we start each order upon payment & cater to your needs/wants for your car.
-dimpled
-drilled
-slotted
-dimpled/slotted
-drilled/slotted
-new AR: drill/drill/slot
-new AR: dimple/dimple/slot
-AR exclusive: sport I’s an over-dimple (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
-AR exclusive: sport II’s an over-slot (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
-AR exclusive: race our unique double slot (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
-AR exclusive: street double slot/drill (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
-AR exclusive: track double slot/dimple (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
-custom pattern match (C-hook, J-hook, Type-3, etc.)
again, each set includes a complimentary rust free zinc finish with order...a corrosion protection process/measure...
BUT:
gold zinc or black zinc finishes are a subtle, unique, aesthetic touch for your rotors very few offer, while still protecting your rotors from the elements.
also...
black (or any of our colors) hubs gives the looks of a 2-piece rotor and is a clean, polished, finished look. the rotor is still standard silver zinc dipped, but with an added baked on matte ceramic-silica coated hub/hat. this is required with the selection of one of our exclusive patterns.
ONE (1) YEAR EXCHANGE WARRANTY!
covers manufactured defects, PER rotor…on all orders!!!
our recommendations:
"how do I order?"
1. click: ORDER HERE in the upper right of each page.
2. axle: pick which axles you looking to replace. fronts 2 only? rears 2 only? or all 4 front & rear?
3. make: what manufacture car are you driving?
4. [next page] model: this lists out all your make selections' models...find yours and select the specifics.
5. year: select the year your car is.
6. pattern: pick one of our 12 patterns, or custom if you want a BBK-match or one-off pattern.
7. zinc: pick a zinc finish, we have 3.
8. coating: pick a hub coating...this is optional.
9. pads/lines: also optional, these can be added to the order as a bundled package if interested or in need.
10. installation: if local, we can work with you to install your set-up in northern California.
"do you offer pads and/or lines with your rotors?" "do you sell (insert brand xyz) pads?"
STOPTECH stainless lines are the braided line of choice as well.
we offer pad only, line only, and pads & line bundles with out rotors, whch can be added to your cart in the order section...click HERE for more info.
"is there a proper break-in procedure for my new set of adam's rotors?"
For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.
Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.
As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient. -Matt Weiss & James Walker, Jr.
"what's the difference between dimpled vs. drilled rotors?"
"do machined rotors create sound?"
"what makes AR machining so different?" "do adam's rotors crack after a while?" "do they warp?"
all machining, dipping, coating, and packaging is done in house at AR. first, we chamfers each drill hole which adds a beveled edge to each thru hole. secondly we pays extreme attention to how the pattern is laid down when machining. taking meticulous measures to avoid each and every vent rib which are the internal cooling veins (on vented discs) in these rotors avoids any issue with cracking. AR will not drill a rotor we are unable to do so with and thus cracking is never a concern. this is another reason why unlike many, we also offer dimples and unique slot patterns, ways of avoiding this and offering better, longer lasting, quality products...and AR backs them by a 1 year exchange warranty per rotor on manuf. defects.
as for warping;
The term "warped brake disc" has been in common use in motor racing for decades. When a driver reports a vibration under hard braking, inexperienced crews, after checking for (and not finding) cracks often attribute the vibration to "warped discs". They then measure the disc thickness in various places, find significant variation and the diagnosis is cast in stone.
When disc brakes for high performance cars arrived on the scene we began to hear of "warped brake discs" on road going cars, with the same analyses and diagnoses. Typically, the discs are resurfaced to cure the problem and, equally typically, after a relatively short time the roughness or vibration comes back. Brake roughness has caused a significant number of cars to be bought back by their manufacturers under the "lemon laws". This has been going on for decades now - and, like most things that we have cast in stone, the diagnoses are wrong.
With one qualifier, presuming that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification, in more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s – one of the most intense brake development program in history - I have never seen a warped brake disc. I have seen lots of cracked discs, discs that had turned into shallow cones at operating temperature because they were mounted rigidly to their attachment bells or top hats, a few where the friction surface had collapsed in the area between straight radial interior vanes, and an untold number of discs with pad material unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces - sometimes visible and more often not.
In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc, aka pad compound build-up. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.
"do the gold or black zinc rotors stay black forever?"
"can you make bigger rotors for my car?"
"do you make rotors for (insert your car here)?"
"can I choose any pattern you offer? do some cost more than others?"
"do adam's rotors weigh less?"
unless your a true race car driver and this car only sees the track, noone out there can truly feel/utilize this "unsprung" weight with brakes on a daily driver, that people are so worried about...and it is hardly worth the extra coin in our opinion, or the severely shorter lifespan of 2-piece LW alternatives for that matter. the blanks weigh less than stock blanks as is, and after machining, even less of course...drilled takes about .75lb from the fronts and about .5lb from the rears. slotted takes half that amount. drilled/slotted variations are somewhere between those two give or take, and a bit more when we look at our exclusive AR patterns.
"what does (insert $ quote) cover?" "how much for shipping to (insert state)" "how much shipped to Canada?"
please realize this is when shopping around...our pricing is very competitive.
there is NO pick-up available…Californian shipments must pay state tax.
all AR orders INCLUDE free shipping within the US including APO's, HI, AK, etc. Canadian shipping is a flat rate +$100 for a set of 4 rotors. we also ship overseas! please inquire per application about international rates with a full address. we also promote that international orders provide a US address of friend or family to ship to in order to avoid the charges for international shipping and customs paperwork.
"is every set made to order?" "do you have (insert your car)" in stock?"
"how do I clean my new set of adam's rotors?"
ALL ORDERS ARE FINAL SALE
the AR garage is located in downtown San Jose, CA
have a question? email us:
all photo work done in-house by:
www.focused-fotos.com
all of your aftermarket part needs:
www.supremepower.com