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why adam’s rotors?

because we do what noone else does. AR is a truly bespoke product, having managed to turn a boring replacement product into a customizable, made to order modification item. now, instead of just picking 1 of 2 drilled or slotted rotor styles from inventory in some warehouse, we offer over 12 patterns for your choosing, made FOR YOU. after that pick a zinc for corrosion prevention...silver? gold? maybe black? thereafter you can even add one of our coated hub colors in a matte ceramic finish to finalize your set and truly give a unique look. we at AR believe a rotor ISN'T just a plain ol' disc brake part...rather a fun, custom, cool way to not only enhance the look of your car, but add performance, protection, and something different to your build.

quality, it's all in the details...

we chamfer each drill hole and pay extreme attention to how we lay down our machining…taking meticulous measures to avoid each and every vent ribs, the internal cooling veins in these massive rotors. AR will not drill a rotor we are unable to do so with, and thus unlike most, never have issues. this is another reason why unlike many, we also offer dimples and unique slot patterns, ways of avoiding this and offering better, longer lasting, quality products when we see possible issues with venting. lastly each set is made for YOU without limitations to options/styles/finishes pre-made and “in stock” laying on the shelf. instead, we start each order upon payment & cater to your needs/wants for your car.

so...you tell us how you want them, with over 12+ options!!!

-dimpled
-drilled
-slotted
-dimpled/slotted
-drilled/slotted
-new AR: drill/drill/slot
-new AR: dimple/dimple/slot
-AR exclusive: sport I’s an over-dimple (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
-AR exclusive: sport II’s an over-slot (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
-AR exclusive: race our unique double slot (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
-AR exclusive: street double slot/drill (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
-AR exclusive: track double slot/dimple (must be ordered w/coated hubs)
-custom pattern match (C-hook, J-hook, Type-3, etc.)

again, each set includes a complimentary rust free zinc finish with order...a corrosion protection process/measure...

BUT:

*COLORED ZINC FINISH: add $25

gold zinc or black zinc finishes are a subtle, unique, aesthetic touch for your rotors very few offer, while still protecting your rotors from the elements.

also...

*COATED HUBS: add $50:

black (or any of our colors) hubs gives the looks of a 2-piece rotor and is a clean, polished, finished look. the rotor is still standard silver zinc dipped, but with an added baked on matte ceramic-silica coated hub/hat. this is required with the selection of one of our exclusive patterns.

ONE (1) YEAR EXCHANGE WARRANTY!
covers manufactured defects, PER rotor…on all orders!!!

please ALWAYS "test fit" each rotor by a visual examination and comparison to your stock/current set-up, per axle. this will help avoid installation costs/issues in the unlikely event there happens to be a mistake on EITHER end with the order.

ORDER online NOW!!!! 

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FAQs:

have a look here for some of our common questions, reccomendations, and important info...

our recommendations:

• slotting is both the quietest pattern and the most performance oriented...slotted, AR race, or AR sport II's.
• drilling is a great look, and it's safe too...add a row for a sporty, classic look. drilled, drilled/slotted, drill/drill/slot, or AR street.                                      
• we offer a unique alternative to drilling; dimpling. get something different! dimpled, dimpled/slotted, dimple/dimple/slot, AR track, or sport I's.
• be sure to check out the exclusive patterns we offer: AR race, street, track, and this year's newest, AR sport I's & II's.
• utilize the silver zinc that’s included in price and add the black coated hubs for a clean finish...this also allows for our exclusive patterns.
• take advantage of our STOPTECH pad and stainless steel line packages that ship along side your rotor order, we're your one-stop-shop!

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"how do I order?"

1. click: ORDER HERE in the upper right of each page.
2. axle: pick which axles you looking to replace. fronts 2 only? rears 2 only? or  all 4 front & rear?
3. make: what manufacture car are you driving?
4. [next page] model: this lists out all your make selections' models...find yours and select the specifics.
5. year: select the year your car is.
6. pattern: pick one of our 12 patterns, or custom if you want a BBK-match or one-off pattern.
7. zinc: pick a zinc finish, we have 3.
8. coating: pick a hub coating...this is optional.
9. pads/lines: also optional, these can be added to the order as a bundled package if interested or in need.
10. installation: if local, we can work with you to install your set-up in northern California.

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"do you offer pads and/or lines with your rotors?" "do you sell (insert brand xyz) pads?"

• adam’s rotors chooses to ONLY offer STOPTECH street and POSI-QUIET performance pads for a reason. we pair them with our rotors for there quality, performance, and realistic daily drivability. many other performance pads, some of which being very popular and highly praised in the aftermarket community, are truly geared towards track use. tho great pads under the right circumstances, truly high performance pads have poor wet weather characteristics, are noisy, high dust, and more importantly compounds that require warm-up periods to create sufficient/safe bite. our pads are meant for car enthusiasts who push they're vehicles to the limit while also using it in daily driving scenarios. the two pads we offer cover both basis depending on the car and your driving style.

STOPTECH stainless lines are the braided line of choice as well. 

we offer pad only, line only, and pads & line bundles with out rotors, whch can be added to your cart in the order section...click HERE for more info.

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"is there a proper break-in procedure for my new set of adam's rotors?"

• after EVERY new brake job is complete, immediately after installation is wrapped up, the brakes must be broken in…this is a crucial step in not only prepping both surfaces for a strong bite and safe braking, but will avoid sound issues, promote even wear, and all around smooth, clean, correct disc brake function…

• when a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different objectives for bedding a brake system: heating up the brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad material evenly onto the rotors while burning the top layer of zinc away; and maturing the pad material, so that resins which are used to bind and form it are "cooked" out of the pad.

For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient. -Matt Weiss & James Walker, Jr.

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"what's the difference between dimpled vs. drilled rotors?"

• a drill hole is a drilled through hole, while a dimple only goes half way thru the rotor's surface. both forms of rotor machining have zero effect on daily driven performance/stopping, and same for most track driving in reality. new age pads don’t create the gas that drill holes were designed to break up and dissipate. slotting is where we see the benefits in cooling. these disperse heat and keep the rotor surface cooler then blank rotor, and cool brakes,are good brakes. dimpling is different...it’s a unique pattern or style of machining many manufactures do not offer. it gives the look we all want, without the fear of cracking many have with drilling. the only real concern can be sound. dimples, due to the pockets “trapping” air between the pad can cause a soft clicking, covered more below.

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"do machined rotors create sound?"

• keyword can...but it's just the dimples/drilling. there is no reason the sound should be anything but mild, pleasant even. each application varies as rotor diameter/surface area changes, caliper size & pad contact differs, as do the compounds used in each brake pad. a bad bed, cheap pads, or an improper caliper/pad seating after install could cause something loud. drilling and more so dimpling is the culprit for something other than a silent experience. air being trapped within the rotor's machining and two pad surfaces creates this, but again is nominal. slotting is the ideal for performance and the faint of ear, so if you are concerned, opt for any of our 3 slotted only patterns. the bedding process which should be completed immediately after install can drastically effect stopping power and amount of sound; it's also an important part of prepping your new rotors. high speed tap braking and full 0-30 pulls to slam to stop, is key...(see break-in info above)

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"what makes AR machining so different?" "do adam's rotors crack after a while?" "do they warp?"

• our rotors simply don't crack.

all machining, dipping, coating, and packaging is done in house at AR. first, we chamfers each drill hole which adds a beveled edge to each thru hole. secondly we pays extreme attention to how the pattern is laid down when machining. taking meticulous measures to avoid each and every vent rib which are the internal cooling veins (on vented discs) in these rotors avoids any issue with cracking. AR will not drill a rotor we are unable to do so with and thus cracking is never a concern. this is another reason why unlike many, we also offer dimples and unique slot patterns, ways of avoiding this and offering better, longer lasting, quality products...and AR backs them by a 1 year exchange warranty per rotor on manuf. defects.

as for warping; 

The term "warped brake disc" has been in common use in motor racing for decades. When a driver reports a vibration under hard braking, inexperienced crews, after checking for (and not finding) cracks often attribute the vibration to "warped discs". They then measure the disc thickness in various places, find significant variation and the diagnosis is cast in stone.
When disc brakes for high performance cars arrived on the scene we began to hear of "warped brake discs" on road going cars, with the same analyses and diagnoses. Typically, the discs are resurfaced to cure the problem and, equally typically, after a relatively short time the roughness or vibration comes back. Brake roughness has caused a significant number of cars to be bought back by their manufacturers under the "lemon laws". This has been going on for decades now - and, like most things that we have cast in stone, the diagnoses are wrong.
With one qualifier, presuming that the hub and wheel flange are flat and in good condition and that the wheel bolts or hat mounting hardware is in good condition, installed correctly and tightened uniformly and in the correct order to the recommended torque specification, in more than 40 years of professional racing, including the Shelby/Ford GT 40s – one of the most intense brake development program in history - I have never seen a warped brake disc. I have seen lots of cracked discs, discs that had turned into shallow cones at operating temperature because they were mounted rigidly to their attachment bells or top hats, a few where the friction surface had collapsed in the area between straight radial interior vanes, and an untold number of discs with pad material unevenly deposited on the friction surfaces - sometimes visible and more often not. 
In fact every case of "warped brake disc" that I have investigated, whether on a racing car or a street car, has turned out to be friction pad material transferred unevenly to the surface of the disc, aka pad compound build-up. This uneven deposition results in thickness variation (TV) or run-out due to hot spotting that occurred at elevated temperatures.

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"do the gold or black zinc rotors stay black forever?"

• the colored zinc will only remain on the NON-pad contact areas for the life of the rotors. the face of the rotor will of course wear silver instantly upon the initial bedding process after install from friction, leaving a very subtle accent color (and more importantly corrosion protection) on the remainder of the rotor. (hub/hat, dimples, slots, vents, etc) this is the same for ANY zinc dipped, rust protected rotor, but with black/gold, has a very nice touch behind a custom wheel/painted caliper.

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"can you make bigger rotors for my car?"

• you cant just put “bigger rotors” on your car. each mm larger (or smaller) would require a new/different carrier to hold the caliper the appropriate distance from the hub to grab the rotor as it spins safety and efficiently within it...your wheels size is irrelevant here too, we need to look at the basis of how disc brakes work. our rotors are ALL built to OEM dimensions. YOU tell us what application you want, and we will make them for that car. for example, we often sell sports models or larger motored car's brakes set-ups so base model/smaller motored cars within the same make/model due to their larger brakes. an S4 on an A4, or an G37S on a base model infinity...an STI on a WRX, etc. these set-ups using larger rotors/retrofits, are not a problem, to those who have already sourced the caliper/carrier set-up needed for a “OEM+ BBK” as we call it. BUT, is still on OEM setup and works only on compatible applications. we are a replacement rotor manufacturer, and we make our set-ups to spec, per car. you would have to have the caliper/carrier to accept the larger rotors…this is your modification and we are only responsible for plug n play or direct bolt on, OEM based kits made for YOUR car…but please know we are happy to build a larger setup for you, yet its your responsibility and requirement to do your own HW/sourcing for the rest of the components needed and in the end I must be building an OEM spec. once more we are made-to-order, final sale.

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"do you make rotors for (insert your car here)?" 

• YES! we make rotors for ANY make/model car/truck/van...just email us if your specific car isn;t listed in our catalog for a quote.

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"can I choose any pattern you offer? do some cost more than others?" 

• you can pick ANY of our 12 patterns we offer...each set is made to your liking so have it your way. our exclusive patterns require that you add our ceramic coated hubs, but other than that all machining is included with our orders.

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"do adam's rotors weigh less?" 

• yes, but we don't advertise as a lightweight alternative because the difference is marginal, but they are lighter.

unless your a true race car driver and this car only sees the track, noone out there can truly feel/utilize this "unsprung" weight with brakes on a daily driver, that people are so worried about...and it is hardly worth the extra coin in our opinion, or the severely shorter lifespan of 2-piece LW alternatives for that matter. the blanks weigh less than stock blanks as is, and after machining, even less of course...drilled takes about .75lb from the fronts and about .5lb from the rears. slotted takes half that amount. drilled/slotted variations are somewhere between those two give or take, and a bit more when we look at our exclusive AR patterns.

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"what does (insert $ quote) cover?" "how much for shipping to (insert state)" "how much shipped to Canada?" 

• all pricing is to your door within the US. machined to order, silver zinc dipped, packaged, shipped, with paypal/CC fee included.

please realize this is when shopping around...our pricing is very competitive.
there is NO pick-up available…Californian shipments must pay state tax.
all AR orders INCLUDE free shipping within the US including APO's, HI, AK, etc. Canadian shipping is a flat rate +$100 for a set of 4 rotors. we also ship overseas! please inquire per application about international rates with a full address. we also promote that international orders provide a US address of friend or family to ship to in order to avoid the charges for international shipping and customs paperwork.

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"is every set made to order?" "do you have (insert your car)" in stock?"

• all orders are final sale once payment is made. we do NOT stock ANYTHING...adam's rotors is a fully, built to order, custom tailored product...ach set is made for you. with over 12 patterns, 3 colored zincs, and custom hub coatings, the combinations are endless...then pair that with EVERY make/model, car/trick/van made, this is what makes us who we are. we process orders immediately and order blanks at that time…once they arrive I start the machining process with urgency and move forward with the build quickly…I too am subject of final sale with our suppliers and being that each set is custom, made to order based, without any inventory or off the shelf units, there are no refunds whatsoever.

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"how do I clean my new set of adam's rotors?"

• these aren't your everyday discs...AR finishes every set w/a complimentary zinc bath (silver) and have black & gold options as well. on top of that, we offer hub coatings to button everything up in a clean fashion. keep your harsh solvents & brake kleen away; these rotors are ready to endure the winter, but not harmful chemicals...mild soap & water is all you need after a messy install.

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